Guess what? There are synthetic chemicals hiding in your perfume and cosmetics… and possibly too many to count.
When I first embarked on my natural skincare business here in the UK, I found it very hard to formulate with scent in mind. There were no step-by-step tutorials or books that really explain how to create beautiful, 100% natural scent profiles for cosmetics. Everything about the fragrance industry is deliberately quite secretive, and even niche perfumers are giving nothing away. It’s a bit like asking a magician how they do their tricks.
After extensive research, trials and many failures, I did eventually get there. It took me nearly one year of solid research, and I uncovered quite a bit about the fragrance industry in the process. Specifically, the long list of synthetic chemicals in perfume that are known hormones disruptors.
This is what the perfume industry doesn’t want you to know
#1) Background info. In the EU, there are 26 allergens which must be named on any cosmetic product (from soap to perfume). For example, if a product contains a certain percentage of lavender essential oil, then Limonene, Geraniol and Linalool must be listed on the ingredient list if over a certain concentration. These are also chemicals (technically everything is a chemical). However, Limonene, Geraniol and Linalool are chemical constituents that are naturally occurring in lavender essential oil. These naturally occurring constituents are typically harmless, but they can cause sensitisation or allergic reactions for some people, and they have to be included on cosmetic product ingredient lists in Europe (not the US).
#2) The tip of the iceberg. There are another 3,973 chemicals in fragrance (including hormone disruptors), which are NOT REQUIRED TO BE REPORTED on an ingredients list and are currently used in perfumes and cosmetics (as of 2016). These are legally allowed to be hidden from you on the labelling by using the term Fragrance (parfum), as they are considered to be manufacturer trade secrets.
Mind Blown…
You read that right.
There are 3,999 chemicals approved for use in all perfume, and only 26 must be declared on the label."
#3) The LIST. Get your hands on this well-buried international fragrance report and see it for yourself. Ironically, it’s called the “Transparency List.” The list as we knew it has been removed from the internet. You can still search here, but they have removed 350 ingredients since 2022, citing “innovation in the industry, quality control and elimination of duplicate identifiers for materials in active use, regulatory changes around the world, and market preferences.”
#4) Everything is technically a chemical. It’s important to note that some of the chemicals on the list are naturally occurring (like linalool in lavender, as above). But what about the rest? How can consumers possibly get to the bottom of such an extensive list? How can we determine what is potentially harmful and what is not when the chemicals are hidden?
#5) Busted. Some of the worst on the list of chemicals allowed in fragrances are the hormone disruptors. We spray them on ourselves, in our homes, offices, shops, cars, you name it, and have no idea what the potential long-term effects are. Most of the time, we don’t even know they are in our cosmetics. Check out this graphic that exposes some very well-known fragrance brands.
#6) You’re in Charge. You can find all this out for yourself because it is online, if a bit hidden. But I know you’re busy, and I feel this is my calling, so I’m gathering the info for you. As always, I encourage you to do your own research, ask questions and take control of your health.
Melissa x